Thinking of Buying an Electric Wall Heater

Looking to buy an electric wall heater, but don’t know were to start. Here is a simple buyers guide that will help you make the correct buying decision

Buyers Guide

When shopping for an electric wall heater, for a new construction job (not replacing an old heater) there are several things to consider.

1. Heater sizing by wattage
2. Voltage – basic guidelines
3. Noise Level of the heater
4. Thermostat / Timer
5. Looks of the grille
6. Heater location
7. Recessed vs. Surface mounting
8. Feature to = Look for or avoid.

1. Heater sizing (how big is the room you want to heat)
The first and most important step is “how big is the room you want to heat “The heater has to be sized so it can heat the room on the coldest night of the year. The quick rule of thumb is for house build in the last 20 years, or older houses that have be renovated with more insulation, and new doors and window is 10 watts per sq ft for ceiling 8′ or lower or 1.25 watts per cubic foot for ceilings higher then 9′

Example small room:
Square footage = 10’W x 15’L = 150 (standard 7 to 8 foot ceiling)
Watts per Sq Ft = 10 to 12 watts (new construction few windows use 10 watts)
150 sq ft x 10 watts = 1,500 watt heater (select a 1,500 to 2,000 watt heater)

Example larger room:
Square footage = 25’W x 15’L = 375 (standard 7 to 8 foot ceiling)
Watts per Sq Ft = 10 to 12 watts (new construction few windows use 10 watts)
375 sq ft x 10 watts = 3,750 watt heater (select a 4,000 watt heater)
Always give yourself a safety factor by averaging up.

Cubic Foot Rule of Thumb,
Room size 10′ H x 15’w W 12’L = 1800 cubic ft
1800 cubic Ft x 1.25(your constant) = 2250
This room will need a minimum of 2250 watts of heat

Please visit of size chart page for more info, if you would like a true “heat load” look for software called “Manual J” online or consult an architect or mechanical engineer

2. Voltage
Knowing your, and having the correct voltage, is right up there as one of the most important thing to know and understand before you purchase and electric wall heater. Electric wall heaters come in 120 and 240 volts. Some electric wall heaters only come in 120 volts, and some only come in 240. Most homes in the United States have both 120v and 240v in there house, If you have a electric stove, range, dryer or water heater in your home those are all running on 240 voltage. A standard 120 volt wall heater comes in 500 to 1,500 watts which can heat a room between (50 to 150 sq ft room) if you have a room bigger then 150 sq ft you have to have a 240 volt heater. A standard 240 volt wall heater comes in 1000 to 4,800 watts which can heat a room from (100 to 480 sq ft room).

A common over site is buying and or installing a wall heater with the wrong voltage If you install a e heater to the wrong voltage bad things can happen.

– 120v to a 240v heater will give you of the wattage.
– 240v to a 120v heater will burnout the heater and void the warranty.

If you are not sure on your voltage you will want to consult a licensed electrician. We stock almost every heater you see on line and ship the same day if in stock so we can get it to you pretty fast

( FYI Notes ):
– 110 volts, 115 volts, 120 volts, 125 volts
– (All four voltages will work with the same heater)
– 220 volts, 230 volts, 240 volts, 250 volts
– (All four voltages will work with the same heater)
– 208 volts is NOT the same as 240 volts – it’s a total different

3. Noise level
All fan forced wall heaters will make a noise. I tell customers over the phone when browsing our website the more expensive the wall heaters the quieter its going to be (this rule does not apply to our commercial grade wall heaters with a CFM grater then 100 ) because the internal parts are of a higher quality. If noise is not an issue any heater within correct wattage and voltage you parameters will work.

4. Looks of the grille
White this one is subjective, it is an important part of the buying process is the looks of the heater. Every heater we have except the Broan WH9815 is made with a metal grille with a powder coated painted finish. If you have question on the color of a certain heater feel free to call us

5. Thermostat
Controlling a wall heater can be done with a built-in or wall thermostat. Certain models have the option of one or the other, while some just have option for just built in or just wall mounted only…If you are not sure call or email us

The built-in thermostat the knob is mounted on the outside of the heater. It works just like a wall mounted heater by turning it clockwise you turn the power on and you set the desired room temperature. Turn it counterclockwise you will lower the desired temperature wanted and if you turn it all the way to the left it will turn the unit off.

Wall thermostats are not available on all wall heaters, for those that do offer them this is how they work. A wall mounted thermostat is usually mounted on the other side of the room. A 120v or 240 volt power line is pulled behind the sheetrock to the wall heater. To set the temperature of the heater once again turn the knob clockwise to you desired room temperature.

When using a wall thermostat with this wall heater be sure to place it on an internal wall, ideally across from the windows. Avoid drafty areas, direct sunlight, and other heaters & electronics devices that can put out heat like computers or TV’s. Make sure you don’t place it behind a shelf or too close to pictures what will affect airflow around the thermostat’s sensors.

6. Heater location in your room
Find a spot on an interior wall close to the outside wall. Make sure you avoid any obstructions like a chair or couch, or hanging items like drapes. By using a nearby wall you can avoid cutting into your wall insulation. The idea is to heat your cold wall first and the rest of the room will fall in line.

FYI Notes:
The factories recommend the heater should be mounted at least 8″ from the floor, 8″ from an adjacent wall, and if you are mounting it high at hast to be at least 8″ from the ceiling, 3 feet from furniture… If you have question on mounting location(s) please consult your local or town or city code inspector for the final answer

7. Recessed vs. Surface mounting
– Recessed mounting simply means you cut a hole in the sheet rock wall.
– Surface mounting on a brick or block wall, your heater will mount on the wall instead of inside the wall.

8. Feature to look for or avoid.
– Back box include – Look for it – All heaters have back boxes but some times you can order them separately. The back box separates the heating element from touching the interior wall or insulation. Plus it’s a code violation.
– Thermostat operation ranges – Look for it – Some people want to run the heater at the lost temperature to keep the water pipes from freezing. If the operating range of 50 to 90 F, the heater will not go down to 40 F no mater how low you set it the thermostat.
– Summer Fan Switch – Avoid – This is used for commercial building applications, all it means it that the fan will run but the heater will remain off.
– Heavy Duty Grille – Avoid – Another commercial building application, the greater the foot traffic the higher the odds of someone smashing in the front grille of your wall heater. Unless you have a hotel dolly rolling around your home you more than likely don’t need the added cost of a heavy duty front grille.
– Tamper resistant built-in thermostat Avoid – Another commercial building application, this is used on office buildings, banks, hotel front vestibules.